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A seated figure in dark and orange robes sits behind a flower-covered table beneath a richly colored temple mural — Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère, France — Aug 26, 2023 — Welcome my friends to Dhagpo Kagyu Ling! — photograph by Tokpa Korlo
Photograph from Dhagpo - At Least It’s Not Raining — Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère, France — August 2023 — photograph by Tokpa Korlo
Photograph from Dhagpo - At Least It’s Not Raining — Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère, France — August 2023 — photograph by Tokpa Korlo
Photograph from Dhagpo - At Least It’s Not Raining — Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère, France — August 2023 — photograph by Tokpa Korlo
Photograph from Dhagpo - At Least It’s Not Raining — Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère, France — August 2023 — photograph by Tokpa Korlo

Welcome my friends to Dhagpo Kagyu Ling! This place has always been home to me, from the moment I arrive it settles in, and I feel tremendous peace and joy.

Dhagpo - At Least It’s Not Raining

The familiar faces, the beautiful grounds, the lush sound of French permeating through the space like a velvet pillow tickling my ears. There is a flurry of new activity here that is rather unbelievable; it seems everywhere you look there is something new and exciting to check out. The new Sukhavati garden is simply magnificent, in its center lies the great Stupa of Shamar Rinpoche bedecked in glorious granite and gold. Flowered pathways and 8 golden stupas line the kora walkway, passing by the house of Lama Pourtsla in which I passed many an evening. Memories of him waft through my mind often and I feel very fortunate to have had the opportunity to be in his presence during my formative time here. The blessing here is palpable, everything pulses with the presence of decades of great masters that have come, taught and blessed, built and guided, a history of greatness and dedication. It is good to be back home.

In a blazing contrast to last week’s events in Germany, Dhagpo was incredibly hot and sticky - like a jungle during a heat wave. My clothes were essentially soaked 30 seconds after leaving my room, even standing still, it was intense to say the least. In the big tent Karmapa taught in the afternoons, in the mornings it was the fabulous Trinlay Rinpoche who amazingly translated himself in English and French simultaneously, which is rather mind-boggling - especially considering his talks were incredible and so full of humor and genuineness that one language is already duly impressive. The was also the Rabne, or consecration ceremony, of the Sukhavati garden presided over by Karmapa himself, aptly scheduled on the hottest day of the week. Hours under the screaming sun, running around as Karmapa blessed each and every stupa, prayer wheel, garden, rock, walkway and path in the whole place. I was completely drenched, but it was so inspiring and joyous that I had a huge smile permanently plastered on my sweat soaked face. The whole event was wonderful, and the sunset that evening was especially gorgeous, with several little rainbows dotting the setting sun sky. Karmapa’s afternoon teachings were incredible, full of his usual wit and humor, and also superbly profound. He taught about the practice of Chenrezig, but as usual he veered off topic to impart so much more, his teachings lately have been centered so much about renunciation and letting go. This brought a fountain of questions, in which the advice was always the same - ultimately there is nothing to do, nothing you can do, just let go and stop trying to control it. Control anything. Rest in your practice, feel each moment like it is your last, because “at the end of the day” this is all we have. This very moment, and as soon as you realize that, then it’s gone. I feel like each session my mind was blown wide open, but is it my heart that opens even more. That is the power of the Dharma taught by a living Buddha, Chenrezig himself even.

On Sunday Karmapa bestowed the empowerment of Chenrezig, and the blessing line was totally crazy. While there initially was a plan, Karmapa tossed that to the wind and decided instead to move through the crowds in a completely different way - just to keep us all on our toes. Chaos and excitement ensued, and the blessing photos I feel show some of that wild energy as pushing and shoving turned to giggles and laughter at the absurdity of it all - I struggled to keep up while not getting in the way, or getting run over in the process. It was a calamitous and extremely wonderful time, swirling around a tent with 2500 people, trying me best to capture the radiating blessing and gargantuan smiles on everyone’s faces. Whenever he arrived or left the tent I was especially touched by how tender and sweet Karmapa was with all the babies. He would pick some up, hug them or squeeze their little hands. Small children would give him flowers, or drawings and he would beam back at them in a way that completely and totally melted my heart. He would walk with them holding hands, strolling about withtout a care in the world. It was simply beautiful. The whole event was beautiful. Even the scorching sun, the wildness of the energy, the sweat soaked days, I could not have imagined it any other way. And just to add a bit more fun, after the official Dhagpo program, Karmapa was invited to a Nyingma retreat center in Chantloube, just around the corner, to perform yet another Rabne of the newly completed 108 Stupa garden there. What an amazing place it is, I’ve never seen anything quite like it in the west. To no-ones surprise it was even hotter, more sweaty, but just as full of joy as everything else. Our team’s running joke was, “at least it’s not raining!“ :)

And now on to Dhagpo Kundreul Ling in LeBost - the tour continues! Stay tuned my friends, there is still more to come.

Dhagpo Kagyu Ling

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